According to Paul Levy, writing in the New York Times Book Review of November 28 ("Restaurant Rows), there is a pronounced difference in style between Europe and America when it comes to restaurant ratings and reviews:
"Euro-critics want to know what a chef is like at top form; Americans want to know what the average diner's experience is apt to be like."
This strikes me as both true and deeply metaphorical, at least with respect to my personal tastes. On one side, striving for the highest common denominator ("top form"), and on the other, accepting the lower standard when necessary ("average").
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